TEXTILE FIBERS

TEXTILE FIBERS

by        : Irvan Handri setyo Budi

E-mail  : budiirvan346@ymail.com

Institute  of Textile Technology, Bandung Indonesia

1.1 Classification of Tetile Fibers

Woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, laces, braids, nets, felfed fabrics, and nonwoven fabrics are made from textile fibers. Many Kind of textile fibers have been used to make those fabrics since ancient times. It is estimated that the number of these fibers is more than 1,00, but this number will be increased in future due to the development of synthetic fibers.

The Present textile Fibers, However, can be classified according to their origin, i.e. natural or man-made as follows;

Natural Fibers

1. Vegetable Fibers: Cotton, Flax (linen), Ramie, Jute, Manila, Coir, etc.

2. Animal Fibers: Wool, Silk, etc.
3. Mineral fibers: Asbestos

Man-made fibers (chemical fibers) 

1. Regenerated fibers ( Man-made fibers from natural polymers): Rayon, Polynosic, Cupra (Bemberg).
2. Semi-Synthetic fibers (Man-made fibers from a chemically modified natural polymers: Acetate, Triacetate, Promix (Protein and Vinyl-monomers).
3. Synthetic fibers (Man-made fibers from synthetic polymers): Polyamide (Nylon) Polyester, Polyvinylidene chloride, Polyvinyl alchohl, polyviynl chloride, Polyacrylonitrile         ( Acrylics), Polyethlena, Polypropylene, Polyurethane, etc.
4. Inorganic fibers (Man-made fibers from non-polymers and carbonized polymers) Metal, Carbon (carbonized polyacrilonitrile, i.e. PAN, and oil-tar or coal-tar pitch fibers), Glass, Ceramic,etc

Table 1-1 shows the historical progress of the world production of textile fibers.
Among the synthetic fibers, polyamide, polyester, and acrylics are the most popular textile fibers today as shown in Table 1-2

1.2 Properties of Textile Fibers

The geometrical, physical, and chemical properties of the textile fibers are very important factors for processing those fibers into any kind of textile article. For instance, regarding fibers length, the textile fiber must be a long filament with a suitable cross sectional shape.

Table 1-1. World Production of Textile Fibers (1,000t)

Year	Cotton	Woll	Silk	Rayon/Acetate	Synthetics	Total
1945	4,667	1,034	11	601	17	6,330
1955	9,492	1,265	29	2,278	266	13,330
1965	11,605	1,493	33	3,338	2,052	18,521
1975	11,757	1,538	47	2,959	7,353	23,654
1985	16,578	1,678	59	2,928	12,500	33,743

Table 1-2 World Production of Synthtic Fibers (%)

Fibers	1970	1975	1980	1985	1987	1988
Polyamide	40	33	30	26	25	24
Polyester	34	45	47	50	52	53
Acrylics	21	19	19	18	17	17
Other Synthetics	5	3	4	6	6	6
Total	100	100	100	100	100	100

Approximate lengths of some material fibers are 25 to 355mm for cotton, 30 to 300mm for wool, and 300 to 600mm for flax. The strength of spun-yarns is increased, generally, in proportion to the length of the fiber used within a limited range. However, from a manufacturing view point, there is a suitable fiber length for processing the material by using several kinds of present yarn or fabric manufacturing systems.

                                         

                            

                                      

The man-made fibers can be varied in their length. Fineness, and cross sectional shape (profile) to meet their demands. The fines fibers can give a good appearance and handle to their textile articles. The profile of fibers also affects their handling and appearance. Fibers with a triangle profile have similar handle to silk, i.e. silk-like materials. Figure 1-1 shows the fibers with interesting profiles. Tble 1-3 shows some of the technical properties of textile 

                                               

Table 1-3. Technical Properties of Textile Fibers

Fibers (F:Filament), (S:Staple)	Tensil strength (g/d)		Specific gravity	Regain (%) 20  65%	Effect of heat (
	(Dry)	(Wet)			(Soften)	(Melt)
Polyester F	4.3-9.0	4.3-9.0	1.38	0.4	238-240	255-260
Polyester S	4.7-6.5	4.7-6.5	1.38	0.4	238-240	255-260
Acrylics S	2.5-5.0	2.0-4-5	1.14-1.17	2.0	190-240	-
Nylon F	4.8-10.0	4.2-9.0	1.14	4.5	180(N6)	215-220(N6)
Polypropylene S	4.5-7.5	4.5-7.5	0.91	0	140-160	165-173
Polypropylene F	(Low-pressure)		0.94-0.96	0	100-115	125-135
	5.0-9.0	5.0-9.0
Polyurethane F	0.6-1.2	0.6-1.2	1.0-1.3	1.0	-	200-230
Rayon S	2.5-4.2	1.4-3.3	1.50-1.52	11.0	260-300: decomposition
Rayon F	1.7-5.2	0.8-4.1	1.50-1.52	11.0	260-300: decomposition
Polynosic S	3.8-5.2	2.8-4.2	1.50-1.52	11.0	Same as Rayon
Cupra F	1.8-2.7	1.1-1.9	1.50	11.0	Same as Rayon
Acetate F	1.2-1.4	0.7-0.9	1.32	6.5	200-230	260
Triacetate F	1.2-1.4	0.8-1.0	1.30	3.5	250	300
Promix F	3.5-4.5	3.2-4.2	1.22	5.0	270: decomposition
Silk	3.0-4.0	2.1-2.8	1.33-1.45	11.0	235: decomposition
Wool	1.0-2.0	0.76-1.63	1.32	15.0	130: decomposition
Cotton	3.0-4.9	3.3-6.4	1.54	8.5	245: decomposition
Flax	6.5	7.7	1.5	12.0	200: decomposition

1.3 Modifications of Textile Fibers

It is said that there no chance of inventing a new type of fiber as significant as nylon, polyester, or acrylics. However, there are many ways to change or modify a man-made fiber. All these techniques have played a rol in making man-made fibers more natural-softer, more lustrous, mre comfortable, easier to care for, more pleasing to the eye and hand, e.g., silk-like, spun-like, leather-like. etc. Figure 1-2 shows a manufacturing process for synthtic-fiber yarns.

in Figure 1-2;

1. Chemical process of manufacturing the polymer. The polymer is the raw material of man-made           fibers. 

                            Figure 1-2 . Manufacturing Process for Synthetic-Fiber Yarns
Polymerization → Melt-Spining and Drawing → Fiber Processing (Physical → Finishing (Chemical)
2. Polymer chips are melted under high temperatures. The filament yarn extruded from a           nozzle is wound on a package and drawn out to give it strength. This is done heated              draw rolls.
3. The filament yarn is twisted, crimped, interlaced, blended according to order, e.g. silk-            like.linen-like, spun-like, wool-like ,etc.
4. Mainly processed in fabric, e.g. Surface treatment, resin, permanent pres.

    Figure 1-3 shows a spinning and take-up process for synthetic filament yarns

Figure 1-3. Spinning and Take-up Winding for Synthetic-Filament Yarns

General examples for man-made fiber modification and its rocess are as follows

1. Appearance and handling
        Shrink resistance → Finishing process
        Loft and bulk→ Fiber processing or Spinning/Drawing process
        Silky→Fiber processing or Spinning/Drawing process
        Drape→Fiber processing or spinning/drawing process
        Pill resistance→polymerization
        Dyeability→Polymerization


2. Functionality
        Elasticity→ Spinning/Drawing process
        Strength→Spinning/Drawing process
        High-Young’s modules→Spinning/Drawing process
        Antistatic behavior→Finishing process or Polymerization
        Hydrophilic property→Finishing process or polymerization
        Soil resistance→Finishing process
        Flameproof→Finishing process or Polymerization
        Thermal resistance→New material

So-called composite fibers are custom-tailored fibers for specialized end uses, e.g. self crimping )for fabrics, stockings), segment separation (for super-fine fibers), self bonding (for non-wovens), electric conductive (for antistatic), light conductive (for optical fibers), etc.  These fibers are generally divided into two basic categories; 1) two different polymers joined in a single filament before or after extrusion, and 2 ) two different filaments or staples joined together at the several stages in the yarn manufacturing process,i.e. spinning, drawing, twisting,etc. Some of these examples are shown schematically in Figure 1-4.

Two Different Polymers Joined i a Single Filament     

Two Different Filaments Joined Together

References

Dr.Teruo ISHIDA, An Introduction to Textile Technology, Japan, December  1990

Share on Google Plus

About Unknown

This is a short description in the author block about the author. You edit it by entering text in the "Biographical Info" field in the user admin panel.